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«;^ Important. 

oi res])()iidiii,y fij 



hRure, .,11 1 



111 the hook, iiiidc 



THIS MAP WILL ASSIST THE STRANGER TO FIND HIS WAY 

BEGIN AT CORNER OF ESSEX AND WASHINGTON STREETS. 

"he red lines indicate a short walk beginning and ending at the centre of the city, which includes the most 

interesting and important objects, and which can be traversed in one to two hours, 

according to time spent at the two museums. 

20. Direction to Boston St., thence to Hanson St., 
approaching Gallows hill (1 mile). 

21. Opposite 109 Washington St., site of the Town 
house, where first Provincial Congress met. 

22. Same as 21. 

23. At 134 Essex St., Athenffiuni library. 

24. At 60 North St., the bridge over North river. 

25. At 68 North St., the tablet marking site of defi- 
ance to British troops. 

26. Position of militiamen at North Bridge. 

27. At 161 Essex St., painting in marine museum. 

28. At 178 Derby St., Derby wharf. 

29. At 161 Essex St., Peabody Academy of Science 
(marine museum.) 

30. Derby St., (view of Derby St.) 

31. At 27 Union St., Hawthorne's birthplace. 

32. At l:« Essex St., Hawthorne desk, in Institute. 

33. At 104 & 12 Herbert St., where Hawthorne lived. 
33a. At 14 Mall St., where Hawthorne wrote "The 

Scarlet Letter. 
33b. At H Turner St., House of the Seven Gables. 

34. At 178 Derby St., the Custom House, associated 
with Hawthorne's " The Scarlet Letter." 

35. At 22 St Peter St., Survevor Pue stone. 

36. At,o3 Charter St., where Hawthorne's wife lived. 

37. At 18 Broad St., home of Timothy Pickering. 
38.. AtS-iO T>afayette St., State Normal School(l mile). 

39. At 128 Essex St, house where White murder was 
committed. 

40. At 4 Central St., old Custom house doorway. 

<■ ' -, 



At 132 Essex St., Roger Conant ciiarter in Essex 
Institute. 

At 9.1 Washington St., Indian deed in City Hall. 

At 71 Essex St., Narboune house, very old. 

At 38 St. Peter St., Ward house, very old. 

At 8 Mill St., Ruck house, very old. 

At 51 Charter St., Mayflower stone, in cemetery. 

At .il Charter St., oldest known stone in city. 

At 51 Charter St., specimen of interesting "orna- 
mental stone. 

At 22.')4 Essex St., site of first church. 

At cor. of Essex and Washington Sts. (view of 
Essex St.) 



At 23 Washington St., Interesting old building. 
At 1.32 Essex St., the Essex Institute, fine free 

museum. 
At 370 Essex St., oil painting in library. 
At 310 Essex St., Roger Williams or Witch house. 
At 34 Federal St., witch death warrant. 
At 51 Charter St., .Judge Hathorne's stone in 

cemetery. 
At 34 Federal St., witch pins in Court house (side 

entiance) . 
At 1.32 Essex St., oil painting in Essex Institute. 
At 1.5 Broad St., Sheriff Corwin stone. 



%immmmm^Mmwmmm^^^^M/^^ 




IV licit is til ere to see liere? 

is the first question of the stranger. 

Salem's principal points of distinction are: 

First — It is the oldest city in Massachusetts — settled only six- 
years after the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth (1626). 

Second — The terrible witchcraft craze had its storm centre 
here (1692). 

Third — It became a great commercial port during the eight- 
eenth centur}^ (1700-1812). 

Fourth — It took an exceptionally active part in the war of the 
Revolution (1775-1782), and tiie war of 1812. 

Fifth — Nathaniel Hawthorne was born and wrote the Scarlet 
Letter here (1804-1864.) 

The most important things to see are associated with these 
events. 



IHE LIBBAKY OF 
CONGRESS. 

Tv.0 Copies Received 

AUG 10 1903 

(•lass «- XXcNo. 
rnPY B. 



SSACHUSETTS. 



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•* "<» «Ni»l»»M ^%i«'»»«» 





THE GREAT ANTIQUITY 
OF SALEM. 




ALEM is very old. It is the oldest city in 
New England, being settled within six 
years after the arrival of the "Mayflower" 
at Plymouth. At that time (1626) the 
whole Massachusetts coast was an undis- 
lurbed wilderness, save the little settle- 
(lU Cape Cod and Cape Ann. 
Indians had 
lage here be- - J V^^^f 

the white »■ . . 

men came, living 
in wigwams, and 
having cleared a 
considerable piece 
01 ground, which 
they cultivated to 
ci>rn. 

The Indians 1 „ , . ,. ,, 

J (At Essex In^ititute I H.i->T CMiiimt 

were a quiet and charter, jliantcilhy the Kms; 

peaceable tribe, however, and gave welcome to 
Roger Conant and his little band when they gave 
up struggling for a living on the bleak shores of 
Cape Ann, and came to their locality, which was 
described by Conant as a fruitful neck of land, pro- 
jecting into the sea, with "grass thick and long. 
and very high, growing wildly," with strawberries 
everywhere, wild roses, brilliant and fragrant wild 
flowers, and scented herbs, raspberries, plums, 
grapes and other tempting wild fruits in profusion. 
Even with all these advantages of nature, they 




had a hard time to get along, and were many times 
minded to remove to a new place, which they 
would have done, had it not been for the fidelity 
and perseverance of their leader. 

In a few years the arrival of Endicott in the 
ship "Abigail" brought large accessions to their 
numbers and their supplies, and put the community 
on substantial and permanent footing. The ketch- 
iug and curing of fish for shipment to Europe be- 
came a prohtable industry, and in the course of a 
few years a flood tide of immigration set in toward 
the new America that brought Salem a flourishi 
and prosperous growth in population. Ship-bui 
ing was engaged 
and sea commerce 
opened up with di 
tant ports. Your 

Salem grew wealthy, 
influential and aristo- 
cratic. During the 
next two centuries 
she was the second 
place of importance 
in New England, and 
one of the principal 
ports in the thirteen 
colonies. 

Landmarks in the 

way of houses con- 

d with that first 




(',« Washington St., in City Hall ) The 
original Deed from the Indians to the 
early settlers, eo'iveyinn title to the land 




^ 



3 

(j7.KIi8Be:t, 



St.) Tht; Haroonne house, 
built'before 1380. 



'ERY OLD HOUSES IN SALEM. 

(38 St. Peter St.) Ward house, 

built 1684. 



(8 Mill St.) The Ruck 1 
built before 1651. 



(Charter St. Ceniclcry.) A hare date often expresses little to th 
stones hy recalling that when Georse Wasliington out down hi 
here nearly as Ions as he has now heen dead. 





i the oldest stone in the city that 
is now legible. "Dorothy, wife of 
Philip Cromwell." I(i7:!. 

century ()f Salem's history are naturally not many 
for building and rebuilding, to take care of the 
increased growth in population for two hun- 
dred years, has caused them to be displaced by 
less aged houses, but there are still standing a 
few old dwellings that were erected before the 
year 1700, retaining their ciuaint architecture and 
original timbers. In the old burying ground on 
Charter Street one can walk about among the 



(Essex Street.) 
View of the his- 
toric main street, 
which was origi. 
iially an Indian 
path through the 
forest. First build- 
ing on the rightl the 
site of the first 
churcli. See tablet. 



headstones that mark the graves of the pioneers of 
that early day, and in the fine museum of antiqui- 
ties at the Essex Institute, one can see specimens 
of the wigs they wore, the queer bonnets for the 
ladies, the tinder box, andirons, roasting jack or 
chafing dish with which they prepared their meals, 
the old pewter ware and blue china they ate from, 
the foot stove they took to church to keep their 
feet warm, flax wheels and quilting frames used by 

rll Washington M.) The 
old bakerv is one of the most 
interesting of Salem's old 
hoiise'^. because it has under 
•rone little change or repair, 
and Its black. \\tMthci beaten 
sides .•iiiiubhnir biK k fduii 
d.iti.-ii, .md comes s.i^^um 
lioui tliu perpeiidicul.il ,-),.■, ik 
n-4_^,«-^ — ' — "'-' -- plainly of the twi. (.niimes 
^^ ~ it has survi\ed In-nb the 

low studded little room u«ed for a bakery, the ol 1 in 1111-- will 
111 si en to have been hexMi fioni the rnii>rh b>- \Mtli in i\e 
md tluii ciude oUKinieiit.ilinii ii . oiiipli-lM d with nui 1 1m. i. s 
It-. 1 ilibo.iidscoveilllt; tlieoiilsi.l, ,| , mbc ^ri n win sl,,u,d 
11. .111 the lo- m the pnimtm win, b\ liaii.l. ami .1 pi ep 
tliiouirh the chinks in them will show tlie space between the 
outer and inner walls to be cemented with brick and mortar 
a < omnion means of protection in early days against fire and 
bullets. 




1 



I grave stone. if a pas- 
sflower. Capt. More, 
mouth in KiL'd. etery. 

the housewives, hour-glasses, sun-dials, flintlock 
muskets, horse pistols, and many other interesting 
things. 





Tradition says that the main thoroughfare, Essex 
street, was originally an Indian path through the 
forest. Near the corner of Essex and Washing- 
ton Streets is the 
spot where Roger Co- 
nant erected the first 
house built in Salem, 
and near here also 
was the first meeting 
house. Historic old 




street! Along its nar- 
row and tortuous way 
in 1692, passed the 
hangman's proces- 

sions, on the way to 
Gallows Hill vvith the 
Essex Institute. condemned "witches;" 

here, too, passed 
the cart, with a Quaker woman tied behind, bared 
to the waist, receiving at every step a stroke from 
the sheriflf's whip that brought the blood; up Wash- 
ington Street a few paces was located the whipping 
post, where all public offenders were beaten with 
the lash. Here have Generals Washington, Gage, 
Lafayette, and many other dignitaries been paraded 
us the guests of the city. 



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•^StS^^^>^^S^S f iim^> ^ ^^^^' 



•;■ ^ THE WITCHCRAFT CRAZE 
; _^,.. IN SALEM. 




J AT incident which has brought Salem 
:.>1^'.|the most notoriety before the world, is 
••: rl : the hanging of the witches here in 1692. 
■ -'^ ■ ■i Back two centuries ago the reality of 



ago tne reality 
rjwitchcraft was generally believed, in 
a3 Europe and this country (it is even today 
rural places) and old court records everywhere 
iw an oc 



mai 



ar 




(^ 



rest and 
conviction o 
some farm 
er, servan 
o r othei 

person for 
bewitching a 
neighbor's 
cow or hurt- 
ing his per- 

^°'^- Witchcraft Suspicion (n painting in Public Library I. 

But in Salem, in 1692. there occurred a regular 
epidemic of witch manifestations and accusations. 
The beginning of the craze is traced to a party of 
girls, in a neighborhood out in Danvers (two, 
only nine and eleven years old), who used to 
gather together for a good lime at play. There 
was an old brown- 
skinned servant woman 
in one of the families 
in the neighborho 
named Tituba, w 
hailed from India, 
was skilled in some 
the arts of conjuring for 
which the Hindoos are 
noted. With suggestions 
or teachings from this ■•■* 

1,1,1 ^,.,-„^^ol-l fl-io ,-l-i I'l^l r-o,-, '■''1" Essex St.) The witch house, 
o kl W (-) m a n tne C In I d r e n so called because of the tradition that 
practiced pranks of palm- heUUhere*'^ preliminary trials were 

istry. necromancy and 

fortune-telling on each other, until they attained 
considerable skill. Finally they began to claim 
that they c©uld not control themselves, acted 
strangely, crept under chairs and benches, made 
wild gestures and uttered strange exclamations. 
Their parents became alarmed and called in the 




village doctor, who pronounced them bewitched. 

They would be seized with spasms and apparently 

be afflicted with painful 

torture, and upon being 

questioned as to who it 

was that bewitched them, 

accused the old Indian 

servant and two other 

women. 

Amidst intense public 
excitement, the three wom- 
en were arrested, tried 
and committed to prison, 
but the children kept on 

being afflicted and others ■'•^' , vtcurt n..iiMi c ,.|,y 
were accused. The craze ot' 'the death "wTurun't' .'.t 
spread like wildfire, and ^^^'f^kc^""!' """ "' 
the mischief sped hot-foot to surrounding towns. 
Topsfield. Amesbury, Marblehead, 
Ipswich. Maiden, Reading, Lynn, 
Andover and other places began 
to suspect persons in their neigh- 
borhood, and sent them to Salem 
for imprisonment and trial. 

Whether or not there were some 

(Charter St. Ceme- P^'"'""^ • ^^^ '''.^'-^ '^^^^V S^^lty 






J 




tery.) Gravestone of of exerting an influence over th 

.Judge Hathorue, one of 



the judges at the witch 



afllicted ones, something like 
what would be called hypnotic sug- 
gestion today, it is 
clear that most of the 
poor suspects were en- 
tirely innocent, and 
became victims be- 
cause of some little 
oddity of character in 
some cases, and in 
others upon the mer- 
est chance of circum- 
stance; and when they 
ca-me to trial, the 
most flimsy and ridic- 
ulous evidence was admitted against them. 

The trials took place before a court of seven 
judges appointed by the Governor for the pur- 
pose, the sessions being packed to the doors with 



17 

Pins, wliich the witc 
charged with sticking 




people, and attended with most dramatic and ex- 
citing scenes. The children were brought into 
court as witnesses against the accused, and while 
testifying would be stricken with spasms and 
scream with pain at every motion the prisoner 
made. If she wrung her hands, they would say 
that tliey were pinched, and if she 1)it her lip they 
would cry that they were bitten. 

Observing that there was no possible chance 
for those who proclaimed their innocence, and 




( .\ painting at Essex Institute.) 



that old Tituba and one Deliverance Hobbs, were 
granted lenience because they confessed and ex- 
pressed sorrow for tormenting the children, other 
victims took the cue, and, in despair, confessed 
also, which became a strong factor in misguid- 
ing the judges. They had the suffering girls be- 
fore them, and an infuriated populace around them, 
inspired with a religious determination to stamp 
out the damnable business which they believed to 
l)e the work of the devil himself. The specta- 
tors present were beside themselves with impa- 




tience for vengeance and execution. It is related 
that one furious woman took ofY her shoe and 
flung it at the prisoner in court to express her 
contempt. In the mad delirium, 
every person accused was ad- 
judged guilty in advance, and 
everything was evidence. In one 
case, where a good woman had 
led such an unimpeachable life, 
and there was so little evidence 
against her, that the judges over- 
came their prejudices and pro- 
nounced a verdict of "not guilty," 
such an uproar of disapproval was 
produced among the people, that 
they were forced to withdraw the 
verdict and make a new return 
"guilty," and the woman was 
hanged. 

Much uncanny and superstitious testimony was 
given regarding apparitions in the shape of large 
hairy things, red cats, yellow birds and agents of 
the "devil," who rode through space mounted on 
sticks. 

Fourteen women and five men were hanged, and 
hundreds were arrested and thrown into prison 
before the fury of the populace spent itself, and 
the afilficted girls became discredited by crying 
out against some persons so secure in the love 
and esteem of the community that no one would 
longer believe their accusations. 



19 

(In Broad St. Cem- 
etery ) Gravestone of 
Sheriff Corwin, wlio 
arrested and executed 
tiie witches. 




Gallows Hill, upon whicli 



put us far enougli 
lis tlie causes of th 



i-ay from tlie event to get 
■emarkable manifestations 



Two hundred yf:ir< lias 
a perspective that sirs aiid 
recorded, with any uiiiiiiimit\ "t opinion. 

First, it is umiuestiMnuble tliut tliere are many persons today (some of them 
intelligent enough to read and write) who believe in witchcraft now as well 
as then. 

There are those who do not believe in witches, and eliminate the theory that 
any one was bewitched, but are of the opinion that the devil caused all the hal- 
lucination, and was back of all the mischief 

There are some who believe Minister Parris to have been the arch-demon' of 
the whole affair; say he beat his servant Tituba, till he wrung a false confession 
from her, and then took upon himself the office of public prosecutor, question- 
ing witnesses in such a way as to elicit answers that would enable him to vent 
his fanatical hatred and malicetowards persons who had incurred his displeasure 

Then there are some who view the whole craze as a silly and inexcusable 
delusion, and hang their heads in penitent shame for the credulity and folly of 
their ancestors. 

Others believe that hypnotism played a large part in the proceedings, and tluit 
fright and superstition did the rest. 

There are others who believe that none of the 
the phenomena, and that though some of the things could be i 
hypnotic influence, on the whole it is much of a mystery that 
man's understanding at some time In the future. 



satisfactorily 



The modern science of psychology is inakinjj iiian\ iliscim-ru^ timt liavi- mi 
important hearing upon the hallucinations attending the outbreak of the witch 
craze in Salem. They find that it is possible to imi)ress upon a person of the riglit 
nervous temperament the belief that he sees a cat or dog, or any other object, 
by what is called hypnotic suggestion; and that it is possible to cause a sub- 
ject to cry out with pain and imagine himself pinched or bitten, by merely 
making the mental suggestion to him. 

It was believed in the days of witchcraft that, never mind where a witch was, 
she could torment a persona great distance oft" by nuiking a rag doll or pupiict 
and sticking pins into it or pricking it, in lieu of the person, and the pers.m 
would feel the pain, which finds a surprising analogy in the discovery that it is 
possible with a sensitive hypnotic subject, to make him feel the sensation of 
acute pain in his leg or arm by pinching the leg or arm of a doll that is not 
within his sight or hearing. 

There is, further, a symptom of the mind known to physicians who are special- 
ists in nervous diseases, called auto-suggestion, in which a person imaginis 
him«elf tormented by others, and sj strong is the hallucuiation that appear- 
ances of a whelp or bite actually appear on the skin. 

These psychological phenomena open up new lines of speculation that can 
be followed to various conclusions in regard to the afflicted girlt. who were the 
cuuse of all the trouble, and may bring forth a new literature that will sift fu.'ts 
from superstition and clear up much of the mystery that now surrounds the 
history of the craze. 



• .. « ..t. 




SALEM'S PREDOMINANCE 

IN THE REVOLUTION. 




HE Pr 



■■^ I ^'•'wlien it 
I n = Adams. 
[■ : ■■ Paine an 




)vmcial Assembly was sitting here 
selected Samuel Adams, John 
Thomas Cashing, Robert Treat 
e and James Bowdoin, the first dele- 
...•.•.;,^5 gates to be appointed to the Continental 
^'■^-'•■^ Congress, which later adopted the Dec- 
laration of Independence. 

For this action the Assembly 
was dissolved by a 

proclamation from the king's 
governor. An official came 
with the document to the as- 
sembly, but was refused entrance, 
so read it from the stairs to the 
multitude outside. This was the 
last Provincial Assembly to be 

held in Massachusetts. Two ^^_^ 

months later the members reas- 21 .John rianeoc.k. 
sembled at Salem, elected John Hancock tem- 
porary chairman and resolved themselves into a 
Provincial Congress 
the first one among 
the American prov- 
inces. The spirit 
of resistance to 
British usurpation 
that pervaded the 

to the Coiitinentai Congress. COlouieS for SCVCral 

years prior tf) the Revolution, was very strong 
in Salem. The town records show rei)eated reso- 
lutions of pro- 
test against the 
duties imposed 
by the king's 
g o V e r n m e n t. 
When the o])- 
])ressive Stamp 
.Act was being 
enforced, and the 
colonists were 
evading and re- 
sisting the meas- 
ure, a man who 
"told" o n a 
vessel in Salem 
Harbor that was 



ties was tarre( 
ridden in a carl 
"Informer" in 
driven out of t' 
collected powcl 



and feathercc 

through the st 

large letters 

\\n. Later, wh 

r and firearm.'- 



on the Loiiimoi 
cets with the wor 

m his back, an 
n the colonists ha 

at various point 





clearly seeing that an armed conflict was 
ensue. General Gage sent a large detacl 
m by way of Marblehead t 
-] for a : 




likely t 
ment o 
J searc' 
tore o 
knowi 
secretei 



cannon 
to be 

here. Thirty o 
ty militiamei 
and a concours 
of citizens gath 
ered in force fn 
the banks of th^ 
little river 01 
; north sid( 
if the town 
ifted the draw 
bridge and defiec 
ere was a scuffl( 



% 



lietween the soldiers aiul some citizens who were 
scuttling their Ixiats to render them useless to the 
British, words were bandied back and forth across 
the breach, and some of the more daring spirits, 
with the Boston massacre a fresh recollection to 
all, defied the British to fire. Finally the com- 
mander compromised with the citizens, aban- 
doned the search, returned to Marblehead, and re- 
embarked his soldiers on the ship they came in. 
This was the first organized and armed resistance 




.Toliii Derby, who cuiii- 
iiiaiiduil the schooner th;it 
ook first news of war to Enj;-- 
id, and put his personal serv- 
ices down on the bill of expense atO. 

to British troops in the Massachusetts colony, 
and happened three months before a similar ex- 
pedition marched to Concord, and on the way met 
the minutemen on Lexington Green. 

With war openly declared, came Salem's real op- 
portunity to be of assistance in the movement for 
American independence. She was a maritime port, 
with a fine harbor, her rich merchants were owners 
of large fleets of vessels, and her citizens hardy 
seafaring men, inured to danger and hardship. 

From this port sped the fleet little vessel, "The 
Quero," which carried the first news to astonished 
England that nearly three hundred of her soldiers 
had been killed in an encounter with the farmers in 
the Massachusetts Bay Colony, outsailing the 
British vessel that had started some days before, 
as the colonial leaders were anxious to get their 
side of the story to their English friends first, for 
its political influence. 

As fast as cannon could be procured, letters of 
marque and reprisal were taken out, until nearly 
e\ery vessel of size owned in Salem was on the 
high seas privateering against English commerce. 
The ports of Boston, New York, Philadelphia. 
Charleston and Savannah were closed by the Brit- 
ish, and Salem and the other small seaports near 
her became the principal source of the country's in- 
tercourse with Europe for supplies of arms and 
military stores. With intrepid daring, her priva- 



teers cruised wherever British commerce could be 
found, even in the English Channel and Irish Sea, 
capturing trading vessels and transports, and send- 
ing them home as prizes. 

This assistance to the American cause, when the 
country was in its infancy and fighting the strong- 
est sea-power in existence, can hardly be estimated. 
England's commerce was almost annihilated, ma- 
rine insurance rates were put up to figures never 
heard of before, merchants and ship-owners were 
so terrorized and annoyed by the plucky little 
American craft that swarmed her shores that they 
dared not ship goods in their own bottoms at all. 

How much influence this condition of afifairs ex- 
erted on the English mind (so slow to give in) 
when they consented to talk peace at Paris, has 
never been taken much into consideration by his- 
torians, but it must necessarily have been tremen- 
dous, and how large a share Salem craft had in the 
work may be shown by the fact that over one hun- 
dred and fifty privateers were sent out from this 
liort, and they captured 455 English pri/es, a 



^ 




.V.p 




^ 


^- 


M 


^^ 



27 
salem sh 



Mudinj;- capture (a jtaintinji at Acadei 



number which becomes vitally signihcant when 
compared with the estimate that only about 700 
prizes were captured during the war by the entire 
fleet of American privateers. 

One of the prizes captured in the war forms a 
part of the Athenaeum library today, it being a large 
collection of scientific volumes captured in the Eng- 
lish Channel. 

A Salem vessel took the first news of the war to 
Europe, and a Salem vessel brought the first news 
of peace, through the signing of the treaty at Paris, 
in 1783. 

The rules governing the sale of privateer prizes, 
that the capturing crew and the owner should di- 
vide the proceeds, gave rich returns to the already 
wealthy merchants, and in the War of 1812, as 
well as' in the War of the Revolution, added largely 
to the foundations of many of the hereditary for- 
tunes that support the first families of Salem today. 




SALEM'S LEADERSHIP 

IN SEA COMMERCE. fl^ 



< 



x^"tl^SA«^^p»^| 



B 




c 



l»<r*y:<r?a UT Salem's crown of glory was hor ship- 
'; ping and her commerce. A time there 
? was. when in the far East, in China and 
..\ Japan, in the Indies, in Snmatra and Java, 
..■; and other far-away ports beyond the Cape 
_^of Good Hope, the name of Salem was 
kniiwn. New England and America were but ab- 
stract terms, but Salem was a known port. The 
ships she built and the ships she manned were pen- 
etrating every 
port of the 
world, carry- 
ing to many of 
them for the 
first time, the 
flag of a new 
and unknown 
country. 

As early as 
1629, fishing 
had become an 
established in- 
dustry, and 20 
years later Sa- 
lem was sending her exports to the West Indies 
and even across the ocean to Spain, France and 
Holland. Side by side with and resulting from 
it, came ship-building. Salem's commerce had be- 
come progressive; she needed ships, and Salem 



(161 Essex St.) 
'I'lie museum, built 
ii\- the old Bejicaii- 
laiiis to liolfl relics 
brought home from 
over the seas. 



ship-builders supplied the demand. Ship yards 
crowded upon each other, and fleet aftei' fleet of 
Salem-built as well as Salem-sent vessels of all 
kinds began to whiten the blue of the ocean. 

Ship-masters and merchants began to grow rich. 
Large houses, large even for the present day, 
began to be built. Spacious grounds surrounded 




them. Characteristic of some of them, were cu- 
polas on the roof, from which the enterprising 
merchant with his spy-glass could recognize the 
white sails of his schooner or brig, far out in the 
harbor. What they brought he would not know, 
for on the captain alone depended the nature of 
the Cargo and the success of the voyage. His 
was an absolute command, and rare and princely 
fortunes were the profits on some of the cargoes 
he brought. One cargo cleared for its owner 
$100,000; another was disposed of at a profit of 
800!'''. The first load of pepper berries ever brought 
into the country was brought by a Salem ship, 
and for a while trade in this commodity was ex- 
cln-uclv Salem's. 




With her push, and enterprise, no wonder, then, 
that the business flourished and the merchants 
grew rich. Elias Hasket Derby, who died in 1799, 
left a fortune of over one million dollars, sup- 
posed to have been the largest private fortune 
left in this country in the i8th century. 

Of the homes of the ship-masters and merchants, 
many remain today, pointing proudly to that pros- 
pero'us past. Yet many of them were too costly 
or too large to be maintained by descendants of 
lesser fortunes and have been transferred to or- 
ganisations or city institutions. One fine old man- 
sion that stood in Derby Square, the magnificent 
home which Elias Hasket Derbv built for him- 



self, ^vas t(H> expensive t<> be m 
its spacious gmunds in the heart 
city and was actually turn down, ; 



ntained with 
(f a growing 
id the site it 



t ..A 





Ship America, very fast, and t'aiiious in lier (iay. 

occu]jied given over to a town market house 
whicli stands in the sciuare today. 

1 hearchitecture of these homes is interesting and 
suggestive. Built in a generous, ample style; 
broad of foundation and high as to walls; digni- 
fied; simple, yet commanding, they are truly in- 
dicative of the characters of those early ship- 
masters, their height and breadth faithfully repre- 
senting the high broad-mindedness of these men. 
about which, like their houses, there was nothing 
superfluous or small, but all on a scale commen- 
surate with what they attempted and what they 
achieved. 

A venture to sea in those days was a hazard- 
ous undertaking. Ships were small, and there 
were neither maps nor charts to guide them. On 
every side, danger lurked. On the ocean from 
wind and current and the great number of pirate 
ships which infested every sea and made the out- 
come of every trip a matter of chance and uncer- 
tainty. But the danger was not on sea alone. 
In strange ports they ventured, ports never before 
visited by English speaking people. What their 
welcome might be thev could not tell. Thev 

A group of four of Salem's famous old Bliiii niercliaiits. 

might escape a pirate ship, only to be cruel!}' 
slaughtered by wildest savages. 

So widespread were Salem's shipping interests, 
and over so vast a territory were her ships 
scattered that when the Revolution was imminent. 



there were over eight hundred Salem seamen 
scattered over the waters of the globe, and liable 
to cajnure by British men-of-war. 

The days of Salem's 
shipping are past, but if 
one would seek the scenes 
of that busy activity, a 
walk down Derby Street 
will be of interest, for 
while dingy shops and 
tenement houses crowd 
upon each other, there are 
still evidences of the old 
days in the stately man- 
sions near the Custom 
House, and in the old 
wharves which still run 
out into the harbor. Derby 
wharf, the largest, is the most interesting and pic- 
turesque. The few buildings still standing on it, 
once so necessary when its sides were lined with 
home-returned craft, are fast falling to ruin, and 
it is today a gray, melancholy, ghostly relic of the 
past. 

Of the wonderful experiences encountered, of 
the discoveries made, of the triumphs won, and 
of the treasures brought home from distant 
lands, volumes might be written. Almost every 
home in Salem has some curiously wrought piece 
of furniture, some gem of inlaid work, some bit 
of priceless embroidery or other treasure brought 
back from over the seas, while the East India 
Marine Society, founded for the very purpose of 
preserving these treasures, has a most remarkable 
collection from every country of the world, in- 
cluding gorgeous feathered apparel, earthenware 
and basketry from Bolivia and the Amazon; bows 
and arrows, tusk necklaces, clubs, and boomer- 
angs from savages of the Fiji Islands and Aus- 
tralia; queer musical instruments, coins, vases and 
dolls from Siam; exquisitely carved ivory and 
hideous great images from China; and countless 
other trinkets and objects of curiosity. 

Here, too, are portraits of the old shipmasters 
and merchants whose sagacity and courage were 
the foundations of Salem's commercial prosperity; 
models and pictures of those famous vessels 
which braved unknown waters and triumphed 
over all obstacles, thus making for Salem a name 
glorious because of the seas she conquered, the 
ports she opened to the world, and the marvel- 
ous commercial era she instituted not alone to her 
own glory but to the glory of her descendants 
and the new world which she represented. 

The coming of the railroads was an event that 
marked the decline of Salem's shipping interests. 
Such centres of railroad commerce as Boston, 
New York and Philadelphia could give so much 
better and cheaper freight facilities to incoming 
cargoes that gradually the entrances at Salem 
dropped off until buyers could find as good or 
better assortments of goo<ls in other ports. 



■s 



t^j^yj,i^i.ri'\ ' \ ' '!f::!.\-/yrjx:y''\^, ' } ' :\^ 



^.NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE. 




c\-ent 111 I i awtlii n'lU'' 

TilVL-ar 1804, bids I'air to 1 
.; known to the win'M thai 
^■■j I'ccnrred before or since 

llawlhorne is growinti in 

;l;;^-.}i.>-.:jg() by, and it is ah'eadv 

thirds of the many thoi 

litscers tliat flock to th.e ( 

' more interested in place: 

w'illi iiim than in an\tliin 



l)irth lierc in tlie 
ike Salem more 
all else that has 
for the name of 
line as the years 
noted that two- 
ands of visitors 
1 city every sea- 
and things asso- 
else here. 




:7 Inion Street.) Thou,i;li 
'fChtiiiK to^all as his hirtli- 
re, tlie liouse is uot nuicli 
K'iated witli Hawthorne's 
, because the family lived 
(■ only a few years after 
W.I-, liurn. The house is 
\ ow iicil by a sturdy Irish 
nan and her husband, who 
keep the shutters drawn tight, and iierniit.no one to enter- 
liavinj? refused, it is said, proffered fees as high as #.^.00. 

Hawthorne was a sailor's son, and he came from 
an ancestry of sailors, but his father died when he 
was very young, and he was taken in charge by a 
landsman, his Uncle IManning, sent to college for 
an education, and supported for ten years there- 
after, wdiile he made discouraging attempts at 
authorship, and deliberated on a profession. 

When he was a boy, his family (mother and two 
sisters) frequently spent a season at a country 
house in Maine, where he hunted and fished and 



skated in winter, so his boyhood v 
dififcrent from that of many other bo 
he came home from college he driftei 
solitary seclusion, that (At ins.x in- 
would be hard to paral- stitm,.i i)..k 
lei. His mother and sis- ;h;,;V7.It'tL 
ters were very reclusive custom House 
in their habits, each Hv- "'"? "po" 
ing alone in her own probaljiV joV- 
room ; there was no 
family meal, no familv 



not much 



I uno ;i Hie 01 

W 



<P 



ted down soiiu' 
of the first 
notes for tlie oq 

eu-cle; they rarely or Seariet Letter, 
never went visiting, and visitors seldom came to 
them. Hawthorne fell into the same way of life, 
stayed in his chamber most of the day, and fre- 



quently had his meals left at his locked door. When 
lie went out, it was usually after dark or early in 
the morning, for a solitary walk to the seashore. 

Having lived away from Salem so much, he had 
few acquaintances among other boys, and it can 
be sure that what few people were aware of his 
existence did not look with favor upon such an 
"aimless idler" as he appeared to be. 




(Ki.t anil 1-J Ilerliert St.) 
'I'liis house i.s most idontl- 
lii'il with Hawthorne's life 
in Salem, for it was here 
that he lived during the 
ten years after he re- 
turned from college. He 
himself wrote, in after 
years, upon visiting the 
old room under the eaves 
he used to occupy: "Here 
I am, in my old chamber, 
whore I produced those 
stnpi'iulou.-; woi-iis of fiction 
whii'li 1ki\(' ^iiice impressed 

Ihi" uiiiM Tsf with wonderment and awe. To 
ehamher, doubtless, in all succeeding ages, pils 
will come to pay 
will put off their 
di'socrating the t 
will exclaim, 
and where h 
which he aft 
There is tlir 
age cleans.'^! 
rendered his 
pur 



their tribute or reverence;— they 
hoes at the threshold for fear of 
altered old carpets! 'There,' they 
is the very bed in which he slumbered, 
was visited by those ethereal visions 
wards fixed forever in glowing words. 
iishstanil at which this exalted person- 
iiiisrit' from the stains of earth, and 
itw.iiil man a fitting exponent of the 
soul wiiliiii. There, in its mahogany frame, is 
drc^isiiig-glass which often reflected that noble 
In-ow, those hyacinthine locks, that mouth brighi 
with smiles or tremulous with feeling, that flashing 
or mcltiug cyi", that— in short, every item of tlir 
iii.-ii;iianiinoiis fare of this unexampled man. Thm- 
is ilii- pine table,— there the old flag-liottomed cliair 
■ 111 wliii-h lie sat, and at which he scribbled, during 
liis agoiiirs of inspiration! There is the old chest of 
ilrawrrs in which he kept what shirts a poor author 
iii.iy lie su])piised to have possessed! There is the 
ilosct in whirh was deposited his threadbare suit of 
bl.K-k! There is the worn-out shoe-brush with whii-h 
iliis polished writer polished his boots. There is'— 
but I believe this will be pretty much all, so here I 
i-lKse the catalogue." 



During these long, listless years, he was trying 
to make an impression as an author, but his ef- 
forts attracted no attention, and brought him no 
pecuniary reward, wdiich discouraged him to the 
verity of gloomy despair, until at one time he was 










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. 3 C Srt' O) 0) cs m >> a I 








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a- 53 P 






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O' "^ r .-. K.HH 0/ — 





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ioSi:a'2Sajst.*-i-,:f;btoSa^2.S;;;=:£^"S 
*Lut-,aaaa'wojoct-Mcs-»-.a«-MC^a!'c«t-icB— .^ 



almost a subject for suicide. The hopeless despair 
of "The Devil in Manuscript," and "The Journal 
of a Solitary Man" is credited with being largely 
autobiographical, and a picture of his mood of 
mind at this time. He received heroic encourage- 
ment and cheer from his college friend Bridge, at 
this time. 

Fate and chance combined to bring him out of 
his lonely hermitage at last. The Peabodys, who 
lived almost near enough to be neighbors, got wind 
of his connection with some literary efforts that 
they had noticed, and by gentle approaches finally 
opened acquaintance with the author and his fam- 
ily. His second visit to their house brought him 
face to face with his future wife, the youngest 
daughter of the Peabody family. 



Used 1 
Mifflii 




HawUionu'V witv, ni'e Sopliia PealxxJy, 

he Peabody's influence got him a position as 
weigher and ganger in the Boston Custom House, 
anct he soon left Salem not to return until several 
years later, when he came back to assume the du- 
ties of surveyor in the Salem Custom House. 

He had been spending the intervening years at 
'"2 Boston Custom House, at Brook Farm, and 
Concord, in "The Old Manse." A tenderly de- 
nted wife had made his married life supremely 
ippy; three children had added sunshine to his 
fe, and he had almost outgrown his former 
cursed habits of solitude." 

The four years that he filled the post of sur- 
■eyor of customs at Salem, were dull and irksome 
years of humdrum oflicial duty, during which he 





lirSDerby Street.) Custom House 
where Hawthorne discovered the 
material for the Scarlet Letter. 



35 

(St. Peter Street.) Gravestone 
of the actual ;Surveyor Pue, in 
St. Peter's Chureli graveyard. 











^ '- '- 


(>f 




1 tJ3 


ttlj- 




lAm 


^ 




gg^^pnih 


- 



(515 Charter St.) Tliis 
house, the home of the 
Peabodys, must have 
had very fond associa- 
t i o n Mir Hawthorne's 
regard, for it was here 
that lie first met li i b 
wife and where his 
cotirtsliip i)rogres8ed. 
'I'liis Ikjii^c also figures 
in ll:,ull,..n„.'s."Dolli- 
v( r l!.iiii;iii.T"and"Dr. 

(.riiMsliawc'rs Secret." 

36 

disconliii' .1 . itiirely. But it was 

while at the Cu-t<Mii lldiiM- il.at he discovered the 
materials for "The Scarlet Letter," and when he 
was displaced from office at the end of the term 
he at once began that great romance. It was the 
first long story he had ever attempted, and was an 
instant success, selling so rapidly that the first 
edition of five thousand copies was exhausted in 
two weeks. 

It brought him the substantial and much-needed 
pecuniary reward that his pen had heretofore failed 
to secure, and made his name imperishable in 
literature. 

But the introductory chapter to the book, in 
which he described his recent life at the Custom 
House, and the finding of the materials for the 
story, raised a perfect storm in Salem, for his de- 
scription of the characters that surrounded him 
there were so clear and unmistakable that they 
were recognizable to all the townspeople, who 
were greatly incensed at the liberty he had taken, 
and the picturesque exaggeration his imaginative 
pen had undoubtedly thrown around them. 

He moved soon after this to the Berkshire Hills, 
and never returned again to reside in Salem. His 
next literary work was "The House of the Seven 
Gables," which has its setting in Salem. At the 
time he wrote the story there were a number of old 
houses in town, with an unusual number of peaked 
gables, that could easily have suggested to his 
fancy "The House of the Seven Gables," but those 
who have hunted here for a house with exactly the 
same dimensions and architectural proportions as 
the house in the story, have been unsuccessful in 
their search, for Hawthorne's imagination was too 
creative and fanciful for him to duplicate like a 
draughtsman or copyist. It is very likely that he 
embodied in his house points gathered here and 
there from several old houses, but the house which 
unquestionably furnished the s.ource of his inspira- 
tion for "The House of the Seven Gables," is still 
standing, and receives the enthusiastic greeting of 
thousands of Hawthorne lovers, every season, in 
spite of its modernized aspect, and coat of bright 
yellow paint, so out of conformity with the gray, 
weather-beaten appearance described in the story. 
Besides these, there are numerous places associ- 
ated with Hawthorne's short stories, which one can 
see if he has the day and the inclination. 






c:> 




OTHER THINGS TO SEE. 




HERE are many other objects of interest 
in Salem if the visitor has time at his dis- 
posal. Many distinguished men have had 
—~~ {? their homes here, including Governor En- 
(licott, who was the second governor of the 
colony, Roger Williams, who was the pioneer set- 
tler of the state of Rhode Island, Governor Brad- 
street, twice Governor of the colony, Timothy 
Pickering, who was Secretary of State in Washing- 
ton's cabinet, 
Rufus Choate, 
^ ^ the celebrated 

A.i* -m Mi -» lawyer, Nathan- 




1/ 



l^-^v^ \\i -» lawyer, Nathan- 

0'^ 1 ' '^^ Bowditch, 

^fr^lR aJ one of the most 

fT fi^W eminent math- 






I'l ematiciansof 
"X^^^^^ic Yus time, Wm. 

[louse. H.Prescott.the 

historian and 
authorof "Ferdinand and Isabella" and "Philipthe 
Second," Jones Very, the poet, whose writings so 
pleased Emerson that he had them published at his 
own expense. 

There are associations connected with a still 
larger list of eminent men including Daniel Webster, 
who made here his famous argument 
murdercase, 
Ralph Wal- 
do Emerson, 
Samuel Ad- 
ams, George 
Washing- 
ton, General 
Lafayette, 
Henry Clay , 

Governor Andrew% General Grant 
perrell, Hugh Peters. 







■J 




SirWilliam Pep- 



<P 




State Normal Scli 



There are many 
fine old mansions 
in the city and their 
colonial architec- 
ture and doorways 
are an attraction to 
the visitor and an 
object of profes- 
sional interest to 
architects from all 
over the country. 

The Institute, 
Academy of Science, State Normal School, and I<i- 
l)raries distinguish vSalem as an educational centre. 
Hours could be profitably spent at the rooms of 
the Essex Institute alone, 
or at the Academy of Science. 
Her seaside resorts, "the 
Willows," and "Bakers Isl- 
and;" her proximity to th 
fashionable colonies at Bever- 
ly Farms, Manchester, Beach 
Bluif, Clifton, Marblehead 
Neck and Swampscott; the 
open car ridesin all directions 
and the fine roads for driving 
and wheeling, along the North Shore both ways, — 
Bit^Bif ^, ,. all make Sa- 



lem a pleas- 
ant place to 
visit. 

The visitor 
interested in 
these things 
can find fur- 
ther inform- 
ation regarding them in the very complete and thor- 
ough guide to the city, issued by the Essex Institute. 




House of White nmnlcr , 
case relebnitcd hv D.an- 
icl Webster's pi ca. 




-3^W 



^ 




(4 Central St.) This pic- 
turesque doorway is the en- 
trance to the old custom 
house, which was in use 
f before the present one was 
built. Many times have the 
princely old merchants in 
the transaction of their com- 
mercial interests, passed in 
. and out here. Its chief in- 
terest to the visitor today is the unique and exclusive 
collection he can lind inside, consisting of souvenirs, 
silhouettes and photographs. Custom house receipts 
with Hawthorne's signature, when he held the office 
of Surveyor of Customs. Many dilTerent portraits of 
Hawthorne, pictures, souvenir postal cards, witch pos- 
ters, copies of Hawthorne's Scarlet Letter and House 
of Seven Gables, all the guide books to any place in this 
vicinity, the only brief and complete story published of 
that fascinating chapter in American history "Witchcraft 
in Salem." 

This is not the custom house in which Hawthorne 
held the position of surveyor of customs. 



«c? 



titfC 




T 



ID»l8 1 



he beautiful 

seal of the 

city, representing 
an East India 
merchant, with 
a Salem ship 
approaching his 
shore ; and bearing 
the I^atin motto : 
"To the farthest 
port of the rich 
East," 







■X 


















^ ^ ST. AUGUSTINE V* 

^S^ FLA. A^ 








.^'-^ -A 



